Monday June 17th 2019 Part 1 - Isel Church and Cockermouth

I woke at 5.30 that morning to a bright sky and the promise of a nice day; there was no rain so it was a good opportunity to put the tent up and get everything set out inside it, then once it was all sorted I took Sophie and Poppie for a walk before making breakfast and forming a sort of plan for the day. I'd recently bought a book '111 Places in the Lake District You Shouldn't Miss' and one of the places featured was Squirrel's Pantry, a tea room just outside Cockermouth where the owner puts food out for the red squirrels and where (if you were lucky) you would see one while you were having a meal or snack. I also wanted to visit the Wordsworth house in the town's main street but first was a look round Isel Church which I would be passing on my way there.

Driving along the country lanes, and just before I got to the church, I passed a wide tree-shaded drive and gateway with Isel Hall on the stone entrance pillars and an 'Open Today' notice just inside. I hadn't heard of this place, whatever it was, and it wasn't listed in the book so just for curiosity I turned the van round and went back to take a look - and came across one of the oddest places I've ever seen. Branches of weeping willow trees hung down so low that I was actually driving the van through them and I ended up in a courtyard partially overgrown with weeds. In front of me was what looked like the rear of a large old country manor which had seen better days and in a corner of the courtyard were two cars probably about 30 years old or more, parked there so long that they were full of filth and green sap from the trees. 

Across the courtyard a few steps led down to a large and partially overgrown garden and when I went round the far side of the building I was met by a weed-strewn flagged terrace with steps surrounded by railings and gates with a 'Private - No Entry' sign on them. The whole place had an air of neglect and abandonment, and though I tried a couple of the doors they were both locked - it was 11.15am by then so if this place, whatever it was, was supposed to be open I would have expected it to be so at that time. And strangely, even though there was a cottage over the far side of the drive, a cottage which looked to be lived in, no-one came to ask what I was doing or what I wanted. I hung around for a while but I still saw no-one and the air of abandonment began to feel uncomfortable so I got back in the van and drove away, glad to get out of this strange place. 

The Church of St. Michael & All Angels was built in 1130 AD and is situated close to the River Derwent down a short driveway off the lane, past a couple of modern cottages with pretty gardens and near a site where an ancient village is thought to have existed on the hillock above the present roadway. Although there was no-one around the atmosphere couldn't have been more different to that of Isel Hall; with well-tended grounds and modern benches set against a stone wall it was peaceful, calm and tranquil with the inside of the building being quietly simple. 

When I came out of the church I found that while I'd been in there the sky had clouded over and a cool breeze had arrived; with less warmth in the day and in some decent shade the dogs would be okay for a short while if I visited the Wordsworth house so once in Cockermouth I found a well-shaded space in a car park just across the river and went for a quick explore, though the house and garden will feature in the following post.

By the time I'd looked round the Wordsworth house it was time for lunch so I drove out to Squirrel's Pantry for something to eat. I opted for scrambled eggs on toast and it was really delicious, though unfortunately of all the time I was there I didn't see a single red squirrel. Back in town I was lucky enough to find a roadside parking space in a disc zone which would give me an hour's free parking as long as I displayed the disc which I'd kept from Easter, so with the sun having reappeared I took the dogs for a wander round, first along the far side of the river where I could see the back of the castle (not open to the public) then along the main streets through the town.

With my hour almost up I grabbed a snack for later from the One-Stop shop and with nowhere else I particularly wanted to go to just then I made my way back to the camp site to relax for the rest of the day and evening before taking Sophie and Poppie for their bedtime walk just after dusk.